Posted by: sandra | 2009/04/01


Goodafternoon expert. I am turning 26 at the end of the year and i want to start a anti-ageing regime - what ingredients in skincare would you recommend is vital for anti ageing?

I would also like to go for microdermabrasion once a month to freshen my skin, but a facialist recently told me that aggressive anti-ageing products such as chemical peels,harsh exfoliants and microdermbabrasion can set off pro-inflammstory chemicals in the skin, causing it to age faster. Microdermabrasion can also be counterproductive if i start to soon .

Can you please give me your professional opinion on these two questions. Thank you very much

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Our expert says:
Expert ImageAnti-ageing expert

Hi Sandra, thank you for the question.

The most important topical ingredient is a good sun protection (SPF 30) that contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

I would consider the use of alphahydroxy acids (NeoStrata Ultra Daytime Smoothing Cream) and antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E and Retinal Acetate (vitamin A derivative).

I am not aware of any evidence that NeoStrata Glycolic acid peels are counterproductive in any way. The mild inflammatory action produced with these peels is partly responsible for the collagen and elastin stimulation. Further benefits include improved alignment of these fibres and increasing hydration of the skin; improving the appearance of pigmentation and fine lines.

I have a personal bias towards microdermabrasion (there are some concerns regarding the inhalation of the crystals during the procedure), however I believe you should make your decision about this procedure by looking at what microdermabrasion is specifically indicated for: Microdermabrasion is a skin-freshening technique that helps repair facial skin that takes a beating from the sun and the effects of aging. The aesthetician uses a device like a fine sandblaster to spray tiny crystals across the face, mixing gentle abrasion with suction to remove the dead, outer layer of skin. As with other skin rejuvenation techniques, more than one treatment may be needed to reduce or remove fine wrinkles and unwanted pigmentation. If you choose to try microdermabrasion my advice is to consider the diamond tip varieties.

Your ‘facialist’ is 100% correct that rough exfoliation of the skin, exfoliating brushes, etc should not be used as this will interfere with the acid mantle of the skin resulting in increased sebum production, aggravation of pores and inflammatory reactions.

The information provided does not constitute a diagnosis of your condition. You should consult a medical practitioner or other appropriate health care professional for a physical exmanication, diagnosis and formal advice. Health24 and the expert accept no responsibility or liability for any damage or personal harm you may suffer resulting from making use of this content.

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