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Question
Posted by: thomas | 2008/08/08

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The ingredients in the Bioderma Max Range SPF 100 are as follows:
WATER (AQUA), DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, OCTOCRYLENE, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, CYCLOMETHICONE, ALCOHOL DENAT., C20-22 ALKYL PHOSPHATE, BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, PTFE, C20-22 ALCOHOLS, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, ECTOIN, MANNITOL, XYLITOL, RHAMNOSE, FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES, LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA EXTRACT, DECYL GLUCOSIDE, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, XANTHAN GUM, DISODIUM EDTA, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, CITRIC ACID, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN
Octocrylene is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics. This organic compound can penetrate into the skin where it acts as a photosensitizer. This results in an increased production of free radicals under illumination. Free radicals are known to induce indirect DNA damage and an increased concentration of free radicals might have contributed to the increased incidence of malignant melanoma in sunscreen-users compared to non-users.
Bisoctrizole, Tinosorb M, (INCI Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) is a benzotriazole based organic compound which is added to sunscreens to absorb UV rays. It is marketed by Ciba Specialty Chemicals. When formulated into a sunscreen bisoctrizole has minimal skin penetration. Unlike some other organic sunscreen actives, it shows no estrogenic effects in vitro.

Bisoctrizole is not approved by the FDA, but is approved in the EU and other parts of the world.

Following from the above I am a little hesitant to use sunscreen products that contain Octocrylene due to an increase chance of developing melanoma.

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Our expert says:
Expert ImageAnti-ageing expert

Hi Thomas

My apologies and you are 100% correct, I have discussed octocrylene in previous posts, in particular with Brent 18th July, Sarah 19th July, and oxybenzone was discussed with Tori on the 28th July.

As mentioned before the use of various ingredients in sunscreens is a contentious one and new data on these ingredients is appearing all the time. The table below is copied directly from the FDA website and it highlights the ingredients that have been approved for human use in OTC sunscreen products and more importantly their specific concentrations:
FDA approves 16 active ingredients for use as over-the-counter
sunscreens
PRODUCT MAXIMUM CONCENTRATIONa
Titanium dioxide 25%
Zinc oxide 25
Aminobenzoic acid 15
Homosalate 15
Trolamine salicylate 12
Octocrylene 10
Sulisobenzone 10
Padimate O 8
Octyl methoxycinnamate 7.5
Oxybenzone 6
Menthyl anthranilate 5
Octyl salicylate 5
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 4
Avobenzone 3
Cinoxate 3
Dioxybenzone 3

Furthermore, the Cosmetic Safety Database that works in conjunction with the Environmental Working Group, rates the use of octocrylene in sunscreens as 3 out of 10 (with 10 corresponding to the highest concern) with regards to safety in human use. They do not rate octocrylene as a skin cancer causing ingredient unlike oxybenzone.

In my opinion it is safe to use octocrylene, until further research indicates otherwise, in particular to the issue of ROS (or is it ros?). Following from all of the above the decision to stop using Heliocare is purely up to you.

The information provided does not constitute a diagnosis of your condition. You should consult a medical practitioner or other appropriate health care professional for a physical exmanication, diagnosis and formal advice. Health24 and the expert accept no responsibility or liability for any damage or personal harm you may suffer resulting from making use of this content.

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